I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream For...Gelato?

On a hot summer day, nothing appeals quite like a soothing ice cream treat. But ice cream can be heavy, leave a coating on your tongue, and consume us with guilt. Italians—not ones to be guilty about food—developed a creamy dessert treat with 80 percent less fat than ice cream: gelato.

, located at 1760 Clarkson Rd. in Dierbergs Market Center, has a reputation for serving up some of the finest gelato in St. Louis. No wonder. The artisan gelato is based on a family recipe fine-tuned by co-owner Judy Bellos. They use 100 percent natural ingredients, such as fruits, nuts, spices, liqueurs, imported chocolates and coffees.

The creaminess is courtesy of Benito's imported Italian gelato machines, which freeze the product slowly. This allows only a minimum amount of air to enter the cream. The result? A product that's smoother, creamier and more flavorful.

On a recent visit, dream employee Michele Chlebowski was holding down the fort. She showed unbridled enthusiasm for the gelato she was selling, not based on what she was supposed to say, but on her authentic love of Benito's product.

“I very much believe in the product,” Chlebowski gushed, with a smile as big as a slice of orange. “I had gelato over in Italy and fell in love with it. A lot of people come in because they had it in Italy. I love gelato.”

Well, alrighty then, Ms. Chlebowski. Why is it good? “Gelato is made with milk—not cream, so it's healthier than ice cream. We use all natural ingredients like fresh fruit, which gives it a fresh flavor.”

Chlebowski said that the shop is a destination stop. There isn't a great deal of foot traffic where the store is located, so a majority of the customers are regulars, including families stopping in with their kids or older couples who want their weekly fix of the sweet and tasty treat. But Chlebowski wasn't done.

“Everything is made here in St. Louis,” she said. “We have self-serve yogurt that's made by us, too.”

Even though Chlebowski said the most popular flavor is blood orange, I went with her favorite two-scoop combo: blackberry and dark chocolate. “Both tastes together is a remarkable combo,” Chlebowski said. “The sweetness of the blackberry with the bitterness of the chocolate...” she trails off and her eyes go dreamy, smiling at the memory.

She was right. The flavors worked well together and both were as advertized—fresh and rich tasting. Any bitterness in the real chocolate was minimized. It just tasted chocolatey. The blackberry did indeed taste of fresh fruit, and both were creamy and sumptuous.

There are many flavors available on a day-to-day basis. Special flavors are featured during holidays and seasons, such as egg nog during the Christmas and Hanukkah season and pumpkin pie during Thanksgiving. When apple pie gelato was featured as a special, it became so popular that it became a regular menu item.

Aside from two-scoop servings ($3.60), customers can also order three scoops ($4.33), four scoops ($4.96), or a one-scoop children's portion ($2.22) or try gelato shakes and malts ($5.25). Takeout is available by the pint ($9.25) or quart ($14.95). Gelato tortes are $19.50 and $36.50.

Benito's Gelato is open from noon to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The shop is closed on Monday.

Amuse Bouche notes:
Speaking of Benito's, Balaban's moved in next door just 19 months ago. According to Feast Magazine, the restaurant has recieved an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine, a big honor in the world of grape sippers. After a three-year hiatus from more than 20 years in the Central West End, Balaban's opened in Chesterfield with an attached retail wine shop. Congrats to the purveyors of fine food and grape extractions.